Monday, June 30, 2014

A Controversial Constitution

One of the first conversations I had in Tokyo stemmed from a front page news article about the Japanese Constitution. Currently, the Constitution only allows Japan to attack another country if it is attacked; it can only act in self-defense. Prime Minister Abe is trying to loosen these restrictions. According to my Japanese friends, Japan is increasingly afraid of the powers to its West, namely North Korea and China, so this constitutional change is said to be precautionary. According to the New York Times, "Mr. Abe has called for a new interpretation that would allow the armed forces also to contribute to the defense of allied nations under attack, something they cannot now legally do. While Mr. Abe says Japan needs more robust military alliances to offset the growing might of China, opponents on the left have staged small street protests to warn that the change could embroil Japan in distant, American-led wars."

This proposed change upsets many Japanese citizens. Yesterday, just moments before I entered Shinjuku railway station, a man set himself on fire to protest against it. I remember hearing sirens and a megaphone, but didn't think too much of it. Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's busiest train stations and this happened on Sunday afternoon with many spectators. Especially in Japan, a usually calm and collected country, this seemed like a radical act. Fortunately, he survived and did not hurt anyone else. He was immediately assisted by firefighters that seemed to know his plan. If you care to see more, watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0I0GlzljUg It is graphic, please be warned.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Kabuki!!

Last Sunday, my host family took me to a modern rendition of a traditional Kabuki play and it was absolutely phenomenal. The performance was put on by the leading Kabuki company called Hensei Nakamura-za, founded in 2000 but based on Nakamura-za, one of the original Kabuki companies that performed from the 17th-19th centuries during the Edo period. In recent years, this troupe has tried to bridge traditional Kabuki with modern dramatic styles. This practice of resurrecting old pieces and performing them anew has drawn some criticism from conservative fans, but also much lauding from new audiences. The four-week run of the play that I watched was nearly sold out, and the audience sat about 750 people! Kabuki is very much steeped in family dynasty, in fact Nakamura-san comes from 18 generations of Kabuki players, an unbroken line of actors.


In the performance last weekend, two of Nakamura-san's sons starred in leading roles. The one in the middle is said to resemble his father's acting style, and I thought both were excellent.

The play was an adaptation of a popular Kabuki play called Sannin Kichisa Tomoe no Shiranami, or The Three Thieves Named Kichisa. It is one of more than 360 works by the prolific Kabuki playwright Kawatake Mokuami. Mokuami is especially well known for his "Shiranami" plays in which his heroes are thieves. The production I watched was about 3.5 hours with two intermissions. My host family generously reserved the best seats in the house which happen to be on pillows in front of the stage, which means we were seated on the floor for more than 200 minutes and I still enjoyed it tremendously! The original play, however, is close to double that length; this production offered four of the original seven acts demonstrating one way in which it catered to modern audiences. Traditionally, Kabuki plays are day-long events, but this company abridges classical pieces in order to appeal to younger audiences and keep the art form alive.

Unlike most modern Western theatre, Kabuki is intentionally non-realistic. Actors speak/sing/chant in ways that enhance their voices, and their movements and expressions are exaggerated, to say the least. Here are some examples I found online:


Another still from Sannin Kichisa. These are not merely publicity photos, however; both this and the photo above and below capture moments from the play. This trio struck a pose at the end of their scenes and applause erupted each time.


The three thieves named Kichisa in the final act



These two photos are from other Nakamura-za productions.

I don't know enough to provide a thorough history of Kabuki, but in brief, the art form emerged roughly 400 years ago during the Edo period, around the same time Shakespeare's works appeared in front of Jacobean audiences. At the time, Kabuki was government-sanctioned, but the opening of Japan to the West in 1868 freed Kabuki from various government restrictions. Originally in Kabuki, as in Shakespeare's plays, men play both male and female roles. However, unlike most of Shakespeare produced today, all Kabuki players are still only men. The female roles are very popular, and often an actor will specialize in playing female characters. Taiko drums traditionally accompany Kabuki theatre, but in this production, there was a mix of taiko and rock music, again as an effort to attract new, younger audiences. The set involves a revolving stage with a long aisle that leads into the audience and one or more trapdoors. This production kept the revolving stage and there were two aisles that bisected the audience from which actors often entered.

One of the most exciting parts of this production was the actor-audience interaction. All of the leading actors entered one by one from the audience and walked down the aisle talking to the audience while certain audience members shouted out their last names. Even from the start the audience recognizes that this is a non-realistic setting wherein an actor is pretending to be someone else. While that is implied in Western theatre, audiences tend to value an actor who can become a character or lose him or herself in the role by acting so earnestly that the audience believes the character is real. In Japanese traditional drama, people have favorite actors, and when they appear in a scene (normally just at their entrance, but sometimes in the first couple of times their onstage), the audience will respectfully shout their name. Some of the actors acknowledged this with a slight nod when they entered which pleased the audience. Much of the staging of the production involved the use of the aisles, and in three instances, the actors actually walked from one aisle to another right across the section where we were seated which caused everyone to laugh and shuffle around in order to avoid being stepped on. At another point, an actor came and sat directly between me and my host brother for nearly a minute while he watched a comical fight scene happening on stage. It was thrilling!

Another highlight of this production was being able to see firsthand the movement of Kabuki players. I had heard that it was special since every move is more of less choreographed, but I had trouble really understanding what that meant. Basically, every gesture, every turn of the head, every step is intentional and meaningful. The actors move at once aggressively and delicately, and it is stunning to watch them. Unsurprisingly, their martial arts are superb, but even these violent scenes are delivered with grace. I have trouble putting into words how much I was moved by this production, but I think most of all I was impressed with the way the actors handled themselves. Every actor has a unique style, which allows them to vary their movement ever so slightly. They also express their style through applying their own stage makeup or kesho.

The last element of this production that struck me was the crew. The set for this production was much more elaborate than a traditional kabuki play. In addition to the revolving set, it included many intricate set pieces, backdrops and even a body of water! The crew members, usually dressed in all black, were like ninjas slinking around the stage to move set pieces or help actors with on-stage quick changes. One crew member's job was to make sure the water seemed real by adding a slight ripple to it now and then and a larger splash when the scene called for it. These were some fit, highly trained, and stealth stagehands, and I was taken aback by how smoothly the production ran thanks to them.

Nakamura-za, the Kabuki company, is performing at the Lincoln Center in New York City next month! It will be their third time performing there having performed in 2004 and 2007. The kabuki that this company generates is sublime, so with all of my might I urge anyone who is in or near New York in July to see them perform. It will be spellbinding and unlike anything you've ever seen before. There will even be an English translation at Lincoln Center which there surely wasn't in Tokyo. (Since seeing a number of shows in Greece two summers ago without English translations, I have become a fan of watching productions in a foreign tongue and gleaning what I can from the actors' expressions, voice, movement, etc, but it is surely nice to be afforded the language, as well!) Here's more information: http://www.lincolncenterfestival.org/current-season/heisei-nakamura-za

And if you're interested in getting a taste of Kabuki, please check out one or both of these short videos:

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Lost in Translation starring...

George Clooney! This subway ad always reminds me of Bill Murray's character from that fine film.



There have been a couple of times when I understood where Murray's character was coming from because of certain cultural differences. Still I'm far from lost thanks to a warm welcome from my host family and the Princeton Club of Japan!

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Cup o' the World

Though I've never been a huge soccer fan, it's quite fun to follow an event that has caught the world's attention while living in a foreign country.

Tomorrow morning is the last game in Japan's three-game series that will determine whether or not it will advance to the next stage of the World Cup. They lost their first game and tied with Greece last Friday, so this could literally be a game changer. My first English lessons were based around sports, and each class had a debate between the World Cup and the Olympics. My students are very invested in both tournaments since the World Cup is currently underway and since the next, next Olympic Games (2020) will be held in Tokyo. Also, I always thought that only the US used the term soccer, but it turns out Japan does, too!

Shibuya, a shopping district in Tokyo close to my homestay, was completely insane during the first weekend I was here because Japan's first game fell on the morning of Sunday, June 15th. Most notably, fans fled to Shibuya Crossing, the famous intersection outside the many Shibuya subway stations, to watch and (hopefully) win the first game. Alas, they did not win, but they still showed phenomenal sportsmanship and impressed the world by cleaning up after themselves: http://www.npr.org/2014/06/19/323696056/even-if-their-team-loses-japanese-fans-still-sweep-the-competition

Blue Samurai fans take after the nobility of their team's namesake!

And, of course, Pikachu wanted in on the action.

Here's to a triumphant game for Japan and a spotless stadium tomorrow!

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Hawaii in Japan

A fantastic first full week in Tokyo! I'm trying to pick up as much of the language as I can while I'm here, so I've been practicing reading Hiragana and Katakana (two of the Japanese alphabets) on menus, street signs, subways, etc and ever so slowly I've noticed some improvement. My main hang-up has been making my brain turn off the other languages I've studied (Serbian and French) and to exclusively turn on Japanese. When my host mother noticed me studying this morning, she brought out a deck of small cards and called for Rinta to come and play a game called hyakunin isshu. Basically there were 100 poets who each wrote one tanka -- a poetic form similar to haiku but with two more lines so it's 5 syllables - 7 syllables - 5 - 7 - 5 -- and now, about 1,000 years later, Japanese children learn these poems in school and play a two-player memory game with them. The last two lines are written on a card, and a speaker will begin to read the tanka and as soon as you know which tanka the speaker is reading, you flick the card away. This video of a professional match should give you a good idea of what I'm trying to describe: youtube.com/watch?v=pwjRb-9dsD0

For me, this game served as a great exercise in listening and reading hiragana. My host brother knows all of the poems by heart so after two or three syllables, he would dramatically swipe the cards off the table. Earlier this week, we played another Japanese card game called hanafuda which translates to flower cards. I had played this game when I was younger, so it was quite fun to be reminded of it. My host family continues to be impressed by the parts of Japanese culture I'm familiar with from growing up in Hawaii.

Last night, we went to a udon restaurant near their home, and I thought I knew what to expect since udon is quite popular in Hawaii, but I was surprised to find that the udon was served cold. My host family explained that whenever possible, Japanese people like to eat cold foods in the summer to chill the body and ward off the heat. Earlier in the week, my host mother made mochi (a chewy rice cake) and cooked it in shoyu (soy sauce), and again I was delightfully surprised by this savory snack because I'm used to eating sweet mochi as a dessert. Both the mochi and the udon were absolutely delicious, and I was shocked that I had never had them before. My point in this is that sometimes there are variations on what I am accustomed to from Hawaii, which is just as if not more exciting than the familiar foods, games, and such.


Udon nom nom nom - in the bowl on the bottom right was a sesame broth which was unbelievable


Readers from Hawaii will appreciate these delicacies not often found outside of the state. The malasada was quite good and of course you cannot go wrong with Hawaiian Sun.

There are displays in department stores that feature Hawaii-related products. There seems to be a piece of home everywhere I go!

Being from Hawaii has also served me well in introductions, especially this week with my English lessons. Most of my students seemed nervous about speaking English, but when I told them where I'm from, it eased all tensions in the room. This is kind of a universal reaction, but it rings especially true in Japan since Hawaii is extremely popular. Everyone I've spoken to has either been or really wants to go to Hawaii, and they all know much more than the average non-Hawaiian about the islands, which has facilitated fun conversations in my lessons. It seems that Japan has really taken to the "aloha spirit" and I'm more than happy to share it as much as I can while I'm here!

Monday, June 16, 2014

Tea & Totoro!

Though I've only been here for six days, it feels like it's been much longer because each day has been filled to the brim, mostly thanks to my thoughtful and generous host family. Some weekend highlights include attending my first tea ceremony lesson, exploring Shibuya, dining out with my host family at two traditional restaurants, and going to the Ghibli Museum which features Hayao Miyazaki's endless creative animations.

On Saturday morning, I took the Tokyo subway alone for the first time and transferred twice without getting lost! This is a feat because 1. I'm not used to subways (not the main mode of transport in Honolulu), 2. the station names are in Japanese and I only comfortably read Hiragana, one of three sets of characters. Fortunately there are usually Romaji characters, familiar English letters, listed right beneath the Japanese, which greatly assists with navigation. The subways I've seen are incredibly clean and efficient, but sometimes incredibly crowded. Some of them even have electronic screens that indicate how many minutes there are until each stop on the line. They are also air conditioned! Though it hasn't been too hot yet, I have heard that July and August are smoldering so the air conditioning will be more than appreciated.

The reason I took the subway in the first place was to get to my first chadō or sadō (tea ceremony) lesson. There is a whole science of tea-making that involves purifying all of the tools used to prepare the tea, preparing the tea, and then serving the tea. Each step is very particular and the sequence of the steps is just as important. The part I found the most challenging was learning to properly fold and unfold a silk handkerchief, fukusa, used to clean each tool. It is beautiful to watch someone manipulate the handkerchief but I'm afraid I looked rather awkward trying to remember each position! Still, I really enjoyed myself and they suggested I return again for more lessons. I'll be sure to take them up on their offer!


Tea ceremony essentials


Yukata! A yukata is sort of summer kimono that is cotton and not as heavy as a kimono. The obi, or sash, is more corset-like than may at first appear! Still, it was so so so fun to wear, and I can't wait to go back for another tea ceremony lesson so I can wear it again! Next time I will flip the obi (it's reversible with a different pattern on the other side!).



The teacher and two other ladies at the tea ceremony lesson helped me to put on the yukata and tie the obi :)


This is where we prepare the tea. The floor is lined with tatami mats, and in the corner, or tokoyama there is a hanging scroll that is regularly changed and chosen by the teacher before each lesson.


The finished product: a thin matcha (green tea)! This was my first batch of tea. After preparing it, I watched someone make thick tea which is more difficult and involves a more intricate handkerchief process. I liked how the thin tea tasted (though it's much stronger than any green tea I'd ever had), but the thick tea was a little too strong for me.

Another huge highlight for me this weekend was the Ghibli Museum. Studio Ghibli is Hayao Miyazaki's film studio, and the museum is basically a playground for all of us Miyazaki fanatics. There are rooms full of sketches from his films where you can see different versions of characters like Kiki and Totoro. There are three volumes of material he turned to for inspiration including taxonomy charts of different plants and animals, portraitures from around the world, and candid photographs from everyday life. Since I was introduced to Totoro in second grade, I have loved his animations so this was a real treat for me. The best part of all was watching a short film that can only be seen in the museum. There are six 15-minute films that they rotate through every month and we struck luck because the one playing right now is an addendum to Totoro! There were people from many different places at the museum, but once we gathered in the theatre, our native tongue no longer mattered because Miyazaki has a way of transcending language so that all viewers appreciate his work.



The entire museum seemed very carefully designed so that you felt like you were in the whimsical world of Miyazaki's films. On the entrance there was a sign that said something like "let us get lost together". My host mother explained that we should feel free to wander anywhere and not worry about a certain path because there is no set way of experiencing the museum.


My two host brothers at the water pump like the two sisters in Totoro :) I have two host families while I'm in Tokyo, each for 3 weeks, and the second family joined us at the Ghibli Museum so I got to meet them!


Kiki has always been my favorite character, and I loved seeing Miyazaki's sketches of her, her cat, and her world to imagine what could have been. For instance, it's difficult for me to picture a Kiki with pigtails or a yellow bow (as seen in the bottom right corner). And of course, Totoro (top right) is at the entrance of the museum to welcome all of the guests!

Lastly, I would be remiss if I didn't wish my kind, generous, and supportive Dad - one of this blog's sole regular readers - a happy Father's Day! 父の日おめでとう ~ chichi no hi omede tou!

I'll post more on Shibuya and dining out at a later time. For now, I'm off to my first English teaching lesson!!

Thursday, June 12, 2014

First full day!

What an incredible day and a half I've had since landing on Wednesday. My host family has welcomed me with open arms, which made the transition to Japan much easier than it may have otherwise been. When I arrived at my homestay, I was immediately offered mugicha (barley iced tea) which seems to be the beverage of choice at each meal and between meals. My host mother knows some English and I have been studying basic vocabulary so our conversation is comprised of a mix of the two languages and lots of gestures. My host brother is learning English in school and he has taken to teaching me Japanese so I reciprocate with English.

My first meal was amazing, as every one since has been. In addition to being pleasing to the taste buds, meals are aesthetically pleasing, since presentation is very important in Japan. 


Mmmmmm oishikata (it was yummy!) Inside the leaf, there was a rice patty with trout, ginger, and vegetables. As my host mother told me, Japanese food aligns itself with the seasons, which became very clear when we shopped at a grocery store and fish market yesterday. There are not as many fruits and vegetables available at any given point, but there is more variety within the foods in season than I'm used to seeing at supermarkets.

Before we went shopping yesterday, my host mother and I visited Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine in the middle of Tokyo that is located in forest that extends 173 acres! Shinto is Japan's ancient original religion, but something I hadn't realized is that Shinto has neither a founder nor a holy book. However, there are an unlimited number of kami or divine spirits that can be seen in mythology, in nature, and in human beings. The divine virtues of Shinto include harmony with nature and magokoro or sincere heart.


My host mother told me to listen when we began walking to the shrine. At first I thought I was being too loud or talking too much, but then the sound of steps on the moist rocks in addition to the birds chirping helped me to understand how special this place is. The densely packed trees mute the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, and I soon forgot we were in Tokyo altogether. It takes some time to walk the path that leads to the shrine, which allows the visitor to prepare him or herself to enter the shrine respectfully and with a relaxed spirit and open heart.


This is the magnificent Torii gate that leads to the shrine, traditionally found at the entrance of Shinto shrines. This particular shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken. They passed away in 1912 and 1914 respectively and the shrine was built in 1920 to commemorate their virtues and their leadership during the Meiji restoration, which oversaw the opening of Japan after 200 years of isolation policy and ultimately helped Japan to emerge as a modernized nation in the early twentieth century. Japanese people donated 100,000 trees from all over Japan and around the world and they worked voluntarily to create this forest.


Fukuda-san (host mother) and I in front of the shrine!

After this trip we walked through Harajuku Ward and took the metro back home. While walking we saw a long line of people, probably 25 or 30, waiting to enter a shop dedicated to popcorn! Fukuda-san and I could not believe it and we had trouble stifling our laughter. I think the shop was called Garret's Chicago Popcorn, which is definitely different than something one would typically find in Japan, but the employee lining everyone up said it would be about an hour wait if we were to join the line. Then, just a few blocks later, we saw another line for popcorn! This was a different shop called kukuruz which means corn in Serbian and probably Russian as well, and this line was an even longer wait! This time we couldn't hold our laughter in and we told the story to the rest of the host family and some of their neighbors who all found it quite bizarre.

After a long, wonderful day, it was time to return home for the evening and have dinner and play with the most kawaii or cute little host brother imaginable. His name is Rinta and he's nine years old and full of energy every minute of the day. Yesterday we worked on an English speech contest he has in September which has many parts including playing the rabbit in an abridged rendition of "Alice in Wonderland" and singing and dancing to Pharrell Williams' song "Happy," both of which were a blast to rehearse.


Striped tuna from the fish market, fried tofu, and somen noodles! Oishikata!! My host brother couldn't wait to dig in and neither could I.

To make the day even more magical, the metamorphosis of a butterfly topped it off. When I arrived on Wednesday, Rinta showed me the cocoon and the next day he showed me this!


Kirei! Beautiful! An amazing end to a fantastic first day. I'm beyond excited to see what unfolds in the next nine weeks!

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Westward bound to the East!

Right now, I'm at the Honolulu International Airport waiting to head to Japan for nine weeks! I'll spend six weeks in Tokyo teaching English and living in homestays, one week working as a counselor at a summer camp, and two weeks traveling to Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, and Hiroshima (other suggestions are more than welcome!). Though Japan has only ever been roughly 8 hours away from home, I've never explored any corner of Asia, so I'm incredibly grateful to Princeton in Asia and the Princeton Club of Japan for this opportunity.

If you're interested in this little adventure of mine then please follow along right here! Take off in T-80 minutes!!

PS since there's no wifi at the airport, this is actually a day late. I actually just woke up after a wonderful night's sleep at my first homestay. Lots to say about the past day but now it's time for breakfast :)